A Half Day in Ehrenfeld

In Cologne, it’s not always obvious where to spend your time.  The city is small but big at the same time.  Everyone is overwhelmed by the Dom so no one knows where else to visit.  The history goes on and on and on.  What can you do?

We can help you out.  We have 86 different Veedel (that means neighbourhoods in our dialect)!  This article is one of a few half-day itineraries you can follow while here in Cologne.  We’ll start with one of our most beautiful neighbourhoods in Cologne.  Let’s check out a half day in Ehrenfeld!

Ehrenfeld is often considered the hip, student district.  Famous for its nightlife and streetart, Ehrenfeld’s quieter beautiful areas are often overlooked and show a more relaxed side of the bustling Veedel.  Ehrenfeld was incorperated into Cologne when the Prussians expanded the city in 1888.  If you’re looking for one Veedel that captures Cologne’s cooler side, Ehrenfeld might be the best place to do that.

A Half Day in Ehrenfeld!

Written by Mike Clarke, Guide and Cologne Resident

Getting there:

Ehrenfeld is accessible via the lines 3, 4, 5, and 13 through Cologne’s Metro.  It is also accessible from the S-Bahn lines 12 and 19.  If you’re coming from the Cologne central station, your best bet is the S12 or S19 as they run quite frequently.  Otherwise, make your way to central hubs like Friesenplatz or Neumarkt to jump on the 3 or 4.  Regardless of which line you grab, we recommend getting off near Körnerstrasse either at the Köln Ehrenfeld Station (using the S-Bahn) or the Körnerstrasse Stop on the metro.

Sehnsucht, Café Klar, The Lemonade Stand,  Van Dyck Espresso Bar or Goldmund Literatur Café

Start your day traveling through Ehrenfeld at one of its many awesome cafés in the Körnerstrasse to Klarastrasse Area.  These above are some of our favorites but it’s hard to go wrong.  Sehnsucht in particular is great for brunch and as the day goes on, becomes a wonderful spot for wine or drinks with friends.  If you’re just looking for a quick pick-me-up, an espresso at one of Cologne’s most popular coffee roasteries at Van Dyck is a good idea.  If you’re looking for a place to sit and relax, read and maybe even get some work done, Goldmund is your spot to visit.  The coffee will be delicious, the food will be tasty and the atmosphere at Ehrenfeld’s cafés is typical Cologne.

If you do want to spend a little longer in the Veedel, start your day at the Piusstrasse Metro Stop and check out the Cafés of lower Ehrenfeld along with Cologne’s incredible Central Mosque.  This is the largest Mosque in Germany and an important part of Cologne’s Islamic and Turkish community.

Explore Körnerstrasse and Klarastrasse

You’re in the area already or close by if you’re coming from Piusstrasse.  It’s time to explore the northern side of the Veedel.  In between the streets of Körner, Wahlen and Klarastrasse, you’ll find some of Cologne’s more beautiful buildings, street art postings as well as community gardens and great shops.  Along Körner, check out miniature street art galleries when artists are free to post their work.  Grab a tasty treat at the Lemonade Stand.  Visit one of Cologne’s most popular jewelry brands in Fejn Jewelry.  Grab a bottle of German wine from IMI winery.  Between many different eco-friendly stores, local fashion brands, and street art, you can spend a while here getting to know the less intense side of Cologne’s student veedel.

Check out the Street Art

Ehrenfeld is important for its Street Art scene in Cologne.  It’s hard to avoid seeing local artist’s work while your exploring but there’s a couple pockets to visit in particular if you’re a fan.  The first is a long the train line near Gerhard-Wilczek-Platz.  Here you’ll find a large concentration of work including some Ehrenfeld favorites.  Walk the trainline further west and you’ll find important works like those tributing the Edelweiss Piraten, an important group of resistance fighters during Cologne’s Nazi past.  In fact, continue along Venloer or Vogelsanger in most directions and you’ll find massive murals reflecting Cologne’s love for art.  And keep your eye’s open for Banana’s spray-painted near galleries.  Those are important.  If you don’t know why, join our tour 🙃!

Shop Upper Venloer  

Once you’ve finished your street art tour of Gerhard-Wilczek-Platz, move back towards Venloer.  Here, you’ll find more of Ehrenfeld’s popular café culture, one of the most popular ice cream spots in Cologne, and quite a few fashion brands and stores local to Cologne.  Check out dressgoat, 24COLOURS, and Lo-Fi.  Maybe the most famous for local gear is Ehrenfeld Apparel.   Check them out to carry some Ehrenfeld love with you further!  You can also grab yourself a relaxed picnic for one of Ehrenfeld’s parks, Leo-Amann-Park and relax for a while in the sunshine or jump into a ping-pong game or two.

Beer at Braustelle

While you’re up there, you might as well try a beer that’s not Kölsch (you’ve hopefully had enough of those on our Kölsch tour).  Braustelle is one of Cologne’s few craft beer breweries and has a good selection.  Check out the Helios (Ehrenfelder Weiss), Colonia Pale Ale, or the Pink Panther, our favorites! (They also make an Alt but we’ll ignore that.)  With a mean menu and summer outdoor seating, this brewery is a great place for people watching and enjoying a few cold ones.  Have one for us while you’re there.

Check out the lighthouse

Ehrenfeld has two towers that define its skyline (ominous Mordor theme music).  One is Colonius, the big Telecom Tower that’s not technically in Ehrenfeld but might as well be.  The second is Helios, the lighthouse.  More street art adorns the road on the way to this random tower without an ocean to call home.  Why is it here?  The factory used to produce the light bulbs for these iconic sea symbols.  Now, it sits as a cool reminder of Ehrenfeld’s working class past.  While there’s not much to do besides get a few pictures with it and explore some more street art, it’s worth a quick stop.  Plus it brings you closer to your next essential stop.

Kebapland for lunch or dinner

We’re gonna keep this very short.  Maybe the best Kebap place in a city filled with them?  Go.  Eat.  Enjoy.  Tell us thank you later.

Go out!

Cologne has some incredible places to spend a night out.  Ehrenfeld might be the best.  Bars like Königsblut, Die Hängenden Garten, and The Bär are popular spots to kick back and relax.  Bumann & SOHN and Herbrand’s offer outdoor spaces to hangout and drink the night away (Bumann is arguably the most popular spot in the Veedel and a good time for dancing too).  Red Fox Bar offers skee ball, arcade games and more.  Go out for clubbing at CBE.  There’s way more to explore and you never know where the night will take you but this is a good start.  Drink, dance, socialize and then go back to Kebapland for round two!

You can do this in any order, all at once, or over a few visits but spending a half day in Ehrenfeld l is a great way to get to know a more local spot in Cologne while enjoying so significant sites and beauty at the same time! Make sure to check out our other blog posts for more itineraries for Cologne and click here for even more recommendations in the city!